Monday 4 November 2013

04.11 - Woh, yao tcheen ah! Embracing the expat stereotype in Island Crest



The flat was almost empty of our possessions. I stood hands on hips looking around at the echoey front room, wracking my brain to try to think of what we might have forgotten to do, and looking at evidence of our failed experiment of living in a ‘local’ block.

The terrace that looked like a plus on paper, but had twice bought water into our flat and been impossible to maintain given the crap our neighbours poured onto it daily. The massive bamboo edifice constructed outside our window that had heralded the start of disruptive and dusty works on the building. The aircon unit that had been broken for 4 weeks during the summer, and poured water more than once onto an electrical socket. The second bedroom visible through the adjoining door that had had a leak since we arrived, and a gaping hole in the floor. The mess behind our book case where a formidably sized family of cockroaches had recently take up residence.

Sigh. Quite the failure. Time to go and try again somewhere else.

Then behind me I heard some mutterings, whispers and gasps, and turned to see my neighbour Isabel and two other elderly ladies standing on the threshold of the open front door, leaning in, heads rubbernecking frantically, staring with ill-concealed curiosity. One lady said, breathless with excitement:

“You leaving?”

“Yes, I am”

“Wah, too many problem, ah?”

“Yes, lots of problems”

“Ah, ah, yes…May we take a look?!”

“Er…[the flat is clearly empty, what do they want to see?]…sure.”

They rushed in like children flocking to the base of a Christmas tree filled with presents, clucking and exclaiming. They opened cupboards, squinted into the fridge, scuttled into the spare room at a run. Quite extraordinary – who knew my empty flat could be so interesting?

As they were about to go, inspection done, one asked where I was going to. After a few false starts in English, I dredged the name of our new block in Cantonese: jun seng fung.

This caused open-mouthed astonishment. As one, they exclaimed “Woooh, yao tcheen ah!”, then gabbled at one another in rapid fire Canto, with much head shakings in my direction. Loosely translated, that means “Wow, so rich!!”

The big joke is we are paying perhaps £30 more a week for our new place. But their reaction says it all. The block we have moved into is wonderful, and looks more like a sleek hotel inhabited by the rich and famous from the outside and in the communal areas.

Spotlessly clean, nicely decorated. Compact but well-put together apartments. Plentiful, friendly, incredibly helpful staff. We know from friends who live here that they can organise any manner of handyman to fix any ill you might have at the drop of a hat. Unbelievable facilities after our manky stairway in 143 Second Street – a pool, a gym, onsite dry cleaning, a supermarket in the building.

Basically, a wealthy-looking, expat-drenched enclave, with all the attendant facilities you might imagine. Fulfilling every stereotype of what expats might want. I mean, the supermarket sells things from, swoon, Waitrose (!) and they even have recycling facilities, don’t you know dahling, where you throw your bins out? It’s like, almost unheard of in HK, so that sort of detail is what makes it just par-fect, you know?*

And so, my first reaction when my erstwhile neighbours were clearly judging me for my choice of move and for seeming to have unimaginable amounts of cash was to feel offended. But then, I thought – so what if it fits the stereotype they have in their minds? Stereotypes exist for a reason. The new flat, despite having been in it for less than 24 hours, feels more like home that the last one ever did. And if wanting a gym and a pool and a flat that fundamentally works and does not have its own creepy ecosystem makes me a dreadful expat, then sign me up to the Dreadful Expat Club right now.

Some thank yous. Cathy and Trevor used their final full day here helping us to move in, and their help and advice shaved hours off how long it would have taken us alone. And a big thanks to Ruth, Michelle, Louise and Rachel for coming to an impromptu house warming last night…I’d never understood what the term really meant before, but having friends and family over within hours of hauling the boxes in through the door seemed to bring the flat to life.

Ghastly typical expats in Island Crest, we may now be. But I think we are going to be very happy here.

*That bit was a parody…I think…

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