Sunday 25 August 2013

26.8.13 - Streets aflame in Hong Kong


We noticed, starting a couple of weeks ago that there's a great deal of stuff being burnt out in the street at the moment.

Often it's one or two people, burning what looks like rubbish in the drain channels by the side of the road, poking the charred paper and toxic smelling packaging with a stick. It can also be a whole bunch of people doing this all at once, with incense sticks arrayed around, wedged in the cracks in the pavement.

The detritus is then simply left lying about, getting soggy and sticky in the fairly constant rain, for days until it finally washes away.

We have asked several local friends and colleagues about it, and they quite vaguely explained that it's a month in the religious calendar for commemorating and honouring dead relatives. Of which, the burning of stuff (in ways that to the untrained eye don't look particularly ritualised) is a big part.

So we have got quite used to seeing it now, crossing the road to stay out the way, stepping over soggy ash lumps and zoning out the pungent smoke.

But, just as we got quite nonchalant about it, Hong Kong as always has the ability to surprise. This picture shows the kind of scale this ritual can apparently reach... and perhaps get commercial.

The man pictured seems to have erected a veritable bonfire, hemmed in by (surely flammable?!) big sheets of MDF. O the road. Worryingly close to a sharp blind bend. In about an hour flat. On whose authority we have no idea.

The baskets are full of 'hell money' - fake paper money Hong Kongers burn to send to their dead to help them in the afterlife. It seems this chap keeps the really stinky fire going, and the occasional passerby buys wedges of hell money to cast into the flames and thereby wire it to a dead uncle or similar.

Just when everything can feel so familiar and normal, stuff like this crops up to remind you that Lincolnshire, Bedfordshire and London are all quite far away...

25.8.13 - Nothing really matters to meeeeee...*ding ding*!


I've been a very lucky birthday boy this week. Some cracking presents, and a French-themed birthday evening with wine, cheese, onion soup and with Claire. A junk with most of our new friends that coincided with this weekend was the icing on the cake.

That alone would have been belting.

But it wasn't the end of the [tram] line for birthday fun.

As I am certain I have mentioned lots of times, I'm very fond of trams. And the tall and thin, clanking, squealing, trundling, bell-ringing ones in Hong Kong are among the very best. And somewhat brilliantly, you can hire special ones for parties. I discovered this a week or so before I
moved out to HK, and have been pining to go on one since.

Claire played a blinder. She had been telling me for weeks that the junk had trumped a tram party, besides which it was all booked up.

Crestfallen in a childish way, I fell for this without query.

And so, my best present on Thursday - as seen in my FB picture where I am clutching a toy tram - was the revelation that a party had been booked as a follow up from the junk.

Couldn't hope for a more expatesque, frivolously party day - junk with a great bunch of people 10 till 530, a gathering on our terrace from 6-9, and party on a tram 930-1130.



The tram looked great, and had plenty of space for us to spread out our BYO booze and pizza. Upstairs had an aircon cabin - a big lack for the real trams which have one - and an open top section. I think it's as close to having a personal victory parade as you can get, lit up, music blasting, waving to the crowds as you process through town.

Particular highlights included: Getting to pretend to drive the tram...an unnamed member of our party jumping off the top deck, along a tram stop roof and shaking hands with people in the public tram in front of us...and our whole group singing the Wayne's-world-singalong-bit of Bohemian Rhapsody at hundreds of shoppers when we stopped at traffic lights. Tens stopped to take pictures, and the tram had to merrily ding its bell as the lights changed to move them out of the way.

Thanks to everyone who came along ad made it such a blast.

What a great present. What a lovely wife I have.

Sunday 18 August 2013

18.8.13 - GIMME YOUR MONEEEY!



Claire and I went to Cheung Chau this weekend – the HK version of a ‘staycation’, as it’s one of the outlying islands. I was going to write about the island…but the hotel stole the show.

For Cheung Chau, suffice to say it’s famous in HK for being crammed full of fish restos, what with still being heavily local and having its own fishing fleet. Hence this fairly disturbing bit of urban art painted on a children’s playground.

Look closely. It’s not just the slogan, but the bloody flying knives that got us.

We stayed in the Warwick Hotel. On the web, it dresses itself as the height of pomp, swank, posh. Banquets. Unsurpassed views. Romantic balconies. Stylish rooms. Suites available. Luxurious pool. Spa. For the discerning, it has the “SUMMER FUNFUN PACKAGE”. It even features on the official tourism board’s mandarin advert for Cheung Chau – I seriously suggest you watch it if you’re in need of cheering up (top link): http://www.warwickhotel.com.hk/en_guide.htm

These clues should have triggered warning bells. We had a lovely time, and I wouldn’t take it back…but really, this was aimed at Mainland Chinese and the odd Hong Konger…

Odd customer care: the guy on reception had American-accented, gangster-filmish English and was obsessed with my paying more than anything else.

ME: Hi, we have a booking?

Him: Yes. You pay?

Me: Er…no, not yet.

Him: You pay now.

Me: Right. Rrrright. Do you have my booking?

Him: [sigh] Name!

Me: Turner

Him: [taps computer irritatedly] Yes we have. You pay.

Me: OK, er…my key first?

Him: [exasperated, rummages and hands me a key] Yes, so you pay.

Me: OK! Can I just order breakfast?!

Him: [mimes drawing a brace of pistols from his belt and mowing us down in a hail of bullets] GIMME YOUR MONEEEEY!

Odd services: The pool was located at the end of a very dingy, sticky-carpeted corridor, behind a battered door propped open with a mop. About 7 metres long. And every square inch filled with inflatable animals. The spa was a very unprepossessing room, and the lady on the poster had her face squashed at an odd angle and a creased brow. She looked like she’d been shot.

The Room: The clincher. We walk in to a large space, very open and breezy. Seaside-y. How could they enhance this further via décor? I know!



Of course! It’s not a proper seaside break unless you are watched over by frolicking, massive DOLPHINS! Hooray!

And the coup de grace. The view really was wonderful. Sweep of the beach and the bustling islands to your left, pretty hills and the bay centre, and right the whole of HK laid out. Beautiful. How could one make such a scene even better for the holidaymaker? Mood lighting? Candles? Nuh-uh.  


WHIRLY MULTICOLOURED DISCO LIGHTS IT IS.

Thursday 15 August 2013

15.8.13 - Feel the wrath of typhoon Utor...?


The reports on TV every hour from the Hong Kong Observatory were clear. This was it. There could be no doubt.

A tropical typhoon – a real one, with a name and everything – was heading our way. UTOR! THE MIGHTY UTOR APPROACHETH, COWER IN TERROR.

We were to experience, within the next 24 hours, our first “T8”. For those who read my post about going through a T3 the other week, the upgrade was coming.

The atmosphere in the office was one of febrile excitement. To imagine quite how giddy everyone was, especially the local staff minutely dissecting the news, think what it would be like if Wimbledon and Christmas came it once.

Swept up in it, I watched the addictive Observatory website where it locates the storm and its projected direction. The nail biting bit is that the projection is no exact science – it can be wrong by hundreds of kilometres. So everyone was squinting at whether it was getting closer to HK, and willing the answer to be ‘yes’.

And somehow, it’s more than just the fact that HK shuts down and everyone gets a day off. The chat is almost salacious in the anticipation of disaster, damage, danger. The war stories came out:

Wah, you remember that year, la, when all Residence garden furniture blow off balconies, smash many cars, ah? Waaah, so much cost, la, Consulate have to pay for all cars!

And so, I scuttled home and fretted about our tens of bits of furniture on the terrace. The picture above shows me finishing off on Weds morning, when the T8 was in force and the storm looming.

Plant pots huddled near the fence. Canopy reeled in. Tables turned upside down and weighted. Umbrella tied up and secured to the wall.

The anticipation built. Don’t go to work, stay at home. Stay away from windows, ensure you have a safe refuge to hide in. Don’t go near the sea front. Don’t go outside. Beware flying debris. It’s like TWISTER…!

Except. When it blew over Weds afternoon, it appeared the T8 was the mildest in living memory. The storm didn’t come closer than 220km. Some satellite dishes and trees had gone down. But that was it. The predicted havoc on our balcony is below – 2 skewiff plant pots.

And this morning, back at work, everyone was disappointed. The worst T8 ever!

Which now I think about it is actually quite disagreeable. In the Philippines, tens died and thousands of lives were destroyed by Utor. The same will be true in China. And we are disappointed that we have only got a few fallen trees. What did we want? Cars flipped, windows smashed, possessions swept out the hole and away? The poorer Hong Konger dwellings flattened?

So in fact, this was the best T8 ever. Day off. Little damage. No death. We should count our blessings. Because storm season isn’t over yet.
 

Friday 9 August 2013

09.8.13 - LSW #1911 Wan Chai Gap to HKCC



LSW hashers: onon, and welcome to my blog.

Followers of my blog (whoever I haven’t bored to death by now), meet the members of the Little Sai Wan hash.

I thought I’d use the medium of my blog to do the write up of this week’s run.

For the bloggers, I will translate the hashing jargon in italics. Every run has a write up – like a post-match report – that is done by the person who is setting the next run. Next week, I am setting the run, so the duty for the write up falls to me.

The A to B began at Wan Chai Gap playground, with almost 40 runners ready and raring to take on the Parkys’ trail.

Most runs are ‘A to A’, which means you all meet in one place and dump your bags; then the trail goes in a big circle to bring you back to your stuff, the beers and showers. A to Bs mean you leave your stuff somewhere, then run somewhere else, and the organisers magic your gear somewhere else. It’s whole different level of effort for the organisers, and usually sign of a good run in prospect.

As soon as the trail led the pack into Aberdeen Country Park, it fiendishly put the pack into disarray. A harshly long check back made everyone retrace their steps back up a hill to rediscover true trail down a side set of steps. However, some SCBs double-guessed the hares, and took the true trail early – you know who you are.

Not that Aberdeen…! A ‘check back’ is a marking that tells the runners that the real route – ‘true trail’ – is back the way you have come, somewhere between where you last had confirmation that you are on the right track and this new mark. It’s a great way of keeping the quick runners slowed up. An SCB is  short-cutting bastard – a moniker for people who don’t follow the trail as it is set…not cricket.

From here, the trail became a true runners trail, thinning out the pack a fair bit, as it hit the Hong Kong trail. Guy tai certainly appreciated making some headway.

Runners trail is code for a flat, fairly easy to navigate trail. Others will translate this as ‘boring’, but I am a big fan – better than fighting through up hill non-trails and bushes and trees!

Some controversy in the post-match analysis ensued after the wimps/Rambo split some complained of ambiguous fork junctions poorly labelled…but guy tai saw them fairly clearly, no complaints from me.

‘Wimps and rambos’ are the terms for ‘short and long’ runs…to make these happen, the group has to split at some pit, which is marked on the road. In the dark, forks in the trail can be confusing when you only have blobs of flour to go on. This caused some bad tempers on finished the run. But I was lucky and guessed them right.

After these forks, the packs rejoined on a catchwater – and the rambos had to pass a few speedy wimps. A well judged split.

The aim of splits is to catch the slower/short runners up with the longer runners. Most runs, the quicker runners still get ahead early – but this run did a great job keeping everyone together. Catchwaters are big concrete channels that literally catch the torrents that can crash down HK hills and stop the downpours causing mudslides etc…but normally they are almost empty and provide nice flat accompanying paths to follow.

After some more swift progress along the concrete flat – aside some sideswipes from tree branches – the group split again into what Parknshop dubbed the ‘forestry trail’. Shiggy time for the rambos.

The catchwaters are usually flat and offer quick running, but are not always used regularly – hence the trees in face (by now it’s dark). ‘Shiggy’ is the term for running  off road/path/set trail. For many hashers, this is the gold standard and a must…but it can be hazardous.

Guy tai managed to trip and stumble several times over fallen branches and trailing creepers on the otherwise exciting forest trail; but eventually lost his footing in the undergrowth and crashed into the mulchy floor face first. On fumbling for his torch lodged in nearby undergrowth, he found he had almost squashed a spider with his face.

No translation here. Spider bit is true. Eek.

After scrambling to his feet, sniffing that the end was near from glancing at his satnav watch, guy tai was dismayed to come across some steps. Then some more. And more. About 500 in fact. An unsociable and trying time to get steps, but he was driven on by voices ad torches to his rear gaining ground.

These we found out are called the sunshine steps.They probably made me fitter, but did not make me sunny.

From the top of these punishing steps, it was On Home down a paved road to the HKCC.

On Home is the term that means there are no more false routes laid on the road, and the end is I sight. HKCC is the cricket club I have waxed lyrical about here – what a venue.

And so the post-match frivolities began (for guy tai, after having to run back a couple of km to check Shake Your Booty had made it up the steps, hearing of an ankle injury) with a dip in the pool and some complimentary towels. Fancy.

Poor Claire had turned her ankle in the dark, and soldiered up the hundreds of steps with a limp. And in the end needed o rescuing, despite my gesture… On venue, normally the post-match drinking is in a park ear some smelly loos. So pool and free towels is pretty swish.

The survivors – grumbling about the un-hash spirited few who came to run and did not stay to eat and drink, pah! – gathered in the civilised surroundings and lined up for more quality grub than you could shake a stick at. Fourth helping of chips anyone?

This is the picture – we rarely sit anywhere so nice. For my run next week we will be standing in the street eating kebabs, for example.

Any sceptics crumbled in the face of the famous dessert.

Rhubard crumble – a quintessential Brit dish – is almost impossible to find. And cricket club does a cracking one. And everyone knows it. So a Parky run finishing here is highly prized.

Down Downs were as follows

These are the drinks that attendees are required to take as fines for offences committed en route. These often sound like they are in code and barely make sense even for normal attendees. So I won’t offer translations here.

The hares – for an ‘interesting run’

Returnees – Tom turk (?) on his 25th run in 10 years

Octopussy – imminent marriage

Motormouth guest – fined for wearing her host’s clothes

Any Dick Will do – for abandoning her guest

Unnamed visitor, T-shirt and fine

Guy tai – donated 10kg of flour for next week’s run, and took down down for it

Tony – size not being key

C(o)ntractor – taking one for the team…

Hares – for rhubarb

Anal invitation – selling beers with no hawkers’ license

 

Saturday 3 August 2013

03.8.17 - Doris was right! Thief!



We had a typhoon 3 warning yesterday. This means that a proper typhoon storm was passing a few hundred kilometres away from HK. So we got the outer edges of it.

I had gone up to the roof terrace of a café we have taken a shine to in mid-levels to quietly have a couple of beers and do some work on my book. I am trying to make time once or twice a week to sit down and crack on with it, and it’s something I am enjoying greatly.

The “T3” started to encroach on that intention. Everyone dismisses any typhoon lower than an 8 (when everyone has to stay indoors and not go to work), and carries on as normal. Which is crazy, really.

The storm began as unusually heavy rain, just as the rooftop had filled up with people. This slowly ramped up over 30 minutes or so until the awning began to visibly sag. One member of staff occasionally poked it with a bamboo stick to stop it buckling.

Within 15 minutes, the wind got serious. It was whipping occasional sprays of rain into the terrace, eliciting squeals from the diners. 10 more minutes, the awning started to give out – all the diners at the edges of the terrace had either retreated downstairs, their tables inundated, or were hiding under umbrellas.

I was feeling hugely smug – my table was dead centre and I had yet to get a single drop of rain. Confident in how safe HK is, I wandered to the loo, leaving my laptop, bag and phone on display.

When I returned, the storm was at its peak. Two of the three staff were on awning poking duties, and a third was scurrying about with an umbrella persuading the stragglers to go below. My mind was made up when the staff gave the awning a particularly big shove, just as the wind gusted. The awning got lifted beyond the reach of the poles, and bucked wildly, its brackets creaking and straining. The shelter removed, the wind rushed across the terrace, covering the laptop with a smattering of water.

Time to go.

So I gathered up my things…but wait! My confidence in HK had been misplaced!

Someone had pinched my bloody umbrella! At the next table 3 very well dressed business ladies (visible here) were huddling under an umbrella that looked suspiciously like mine. I had not seen them with one when they sat down, just before the storm kicked off. I asked them if they had borrowed my umbrella…and they said, nope, this is my friend’s. Definitely didn’t swipe this from where you propped it in the corner.

It was a 7/11 umbrella. So I couldn’t prove it was mine. With one last sceptical backward glance, just as the awning crashed back into its rightful place, I headed for the stairs. Umbrella-less.

Doris, you were right. Thief everywhere in Hong Kong.