Monday, 30 December 2013

30.12.13 - Beachmas 3 - Turner Christmas Hash



One of the key things about Christmas, as my first two posts were at pains to say, is ritual. Habit. The “we’ve always done it this way” bit of Christmas that each family has.

As this was going to be our first Christmas without any of our sets of parents, we felt it was time to come up with some traditions of our own which, with luck, will last into all future Christmases stretching off into the unknowably far away future…

What we chose to do – I say we, the whole idea was actually Claire’s – was to found the Turner Christmas Hash.

We wanted to set it up properly, so it has all the features of the hashes we’ve so enjoyed since moving to Hong Kong. It has an abbreviation to be chalked on walls/pavement in future years – TCH3. It has a Grand Master or GM (Claire) and a Religious Adviser or RA (me, who gets blamed if the weather is pants and gets to name participants). It has a clear code of when it is held – Christmas eve, Christmas Day or Boxing Day, once a year, with the Turners present. It has clear membership – anyone we are spending the Christmas period with. The runs should be ‘live hared’ (where the person setting it with flour sets off 10 minutes before everyone else to set the route). And we’ll record the runs, number of times people have run, where they were etc.

A properly long-term project.

Only trouble is, it could be hard to top Hash #1 in Boracay.

Setting it was hilariously good fun. I bought up 3 kilos of flour from a bemused supermarket (entertainingly called ‘Wang Mart’), briefed our 3 participants on what to expect, and shot off with my 10 minutes head start. Boracay is a thin island, with few trails – just tiny paths around houses and a few crowded main roads. So to make it interesting, I practically had to charge through people’s courtyards at the beginning, and set ‘checks’ – pictured, a circle that means the real trail of flour could be anywhere within 50 metres – on sand, next to junctions and beside street vendors. Much gesticulating was required to ask people not to kick them over or sweep them away. Confused faces followed me wherever I went, especially when I found my route went through a live basketball game.

If it was fun for me, it was like that bit in Rocky where all the locals turn out to do training run with him for the others. As soon as they appeared, looking down at the flour marks as they jogged, the by now thousands of bewildered locals who had seen me pass 10 minutes realised what was happening. Cheering, waving, people offering directions of where the strange man went, and at one point the inhabitants of what we later found out was part of Boracay’s small red light district enthusiastically escorting our group like a bizarre honour guard towards the coast.

During the Circle – where Claire led a round of ‘fines’ for participants – I christened hashers #3 and #4 (Nicola and Cody). The fashion that seems to be most approved of in hashing circles is that names should be a) Smutty or have a double-entendre; and b) Spring from a long story or in-joke.

And so, Muffy Hiker and Anal Prolapse were born, christened as is tradition in a shower of San Miguel.

Want to find out what those names are about? Well, you’d better hope you’re around for TCH3 run no.2 next year, location and hare tbc…

Saturday, 28 December 2013

29.12.13a - Beachmas 2 - Star(fish)struck? Chuck it on the barbie!



So what other activities would I usually be following if this were a normal Christmas? Probably a round of chilly golf or two, followed by an evening discussing how the match went in intricate detail…or maybe a pantomime, followed by an evening of repeating the terrible jokes or humming the catchy song Buttons had been belting out hours before.

Not during Beachmas. We spent all day hunting down and staring at the local aquatic wildlife. And the evening eating it*.

We hired out our own long, thin, bambooed boat and headed out to skim around the island for the day, with snorkels ad masks on hand. I’ve snorkelled before on many, many occasions; whilst Cody and Nic have done some diving. Claire had only done snorkelling the once.

And so when our first underwater view exploded into life, contrary to our expectations given the high winds and rocky boat as we plopped off the side for the first time, Claire was gobsmacked. The coral was very pretty and intricate, and hosted thousands of fish of all the colours of the rainbow, all of whom swarmed around us as bread was tossed into the water. What capped it off was the sighting of a perfectly proportioned, had-sized, fat starfish. Claire literally squealed with delight through her snorkel, creating on odd, discordant, trumpetty noise, which had our two local guides in stitches. Much to my proxy-queasiness, I think an introductory PADI course looms large on our next holiday for Claire…
 

We took some time out on Puka beach (see above) to sunbathe and recover, before sailing back home for leg two of our piscine day of fun. The wet market beckoned.

I had less fun as we entered the wet market. * My fish aversion continues. A tedious phobia to have in Asia. The experience was like an elaborate anxiety dream for me, as I also happened to be desperate for the loo. So whilst the other 3 were weighing up and slavering over the wares on offer, I reeled from stall to stall looking fruitlessly for a toilet fit to burst, as pincers, claws, slimy antennae and staring fish eyes thrust at me from all angles, with water sloshing and jetting about from the small tanks as the livelier specimens made the last desperate protests. Shudder. It had me craving the satisfying ping of a well-struck tee shot or a call of “It’s behind you!”


Anyway, everyone else had a grand time, as you can see. And the symmetry of the fishy supper on the BBQ did at least appeal to me. My personal favourite is the middle wrapped item – it’s like the presents you see in cartoons under the tree for the family cat. What could it be?!

29.12.13 - Beachmas 1 - The Journey



It was a couple of days in as Claire, Nicola, Cody and I heard Michael Buble croon through his Christmas album for the nth time [to Cody’s dismay] that we finally decided what to christen our adventure. Beachmas. It’s beginning to look a lot like Beachmas…I’m dreaming of a White Beachmas [literally – the beach on Baracay is called White Beach].

As we knew that we’d not be home for Christmas, we decided that all we wanted for Christmas was to do something as different as possible. When I took this picture on night one, I could be pretty confident that we were going to manage that.

Day One of Christmas is usually all about the journey home; whilst this time, it was about the journey to the Philippines. I compared the stages of the journey in my mind. They oddly mirrored each other, but also could not have contrasted more.

Fighting across London on the tube, and muscling through Kings Cross crowds to a Grantham express, battling for a seat amongst heaped presents and returning families…Breezing to HKIA by taxi, and checking in to our Express international flight to Cebu in the Philippines.

Connecting at Grantham to the smaller, slower, local train that puffs its way across country…Connecting in a smallish airport to an old-fashioned, flimsy-looking prop plane for a slow hour-long island hop to Caticlan.

Getting picked up, with my many bags of clothes and presents, by dad at the tiny, ramshackle station at Spalding or by mum at the sleepy station if Sleaford…touching down at the frighteningly small airport at Caticlan [right on the sea, where you are only metres from the waves when land finally flashes below in the nick of time, as the wheels bump down], and being picked up by a motorized tricycle, whose owner piles our stuff precariously on the back.

Driving home, normally by night, along twisting unlit Lincolnshire roads…Hopping aboard a long thin boat, with struts made of bamboo springing from each side for balance, for the final jump over the sea to Boracay Island.

Coming home, having a general family catch up and getting in the festive spirit…arriving at our resort, bumping into Claire’s sister Nic and boyfriend Cody as they come to look for us, and having a chat/getting excited about Christmas abroad on the terrace of our holiday villa.

Muffling up against the cold, and trudging into the village for a pint and maybe a bite to eat…getting into cooler clothes [it’s 30 degrees] and meandering down to a restaurant on the beach for some chilled beers overlooking the sea.

Trudging home for a nightcap, Christmas tree twinkling in the background as we look out onto a [ideally] snow covered back garden…decamping to the beach for sunset, lit by bare bulbs strung up from palm trees, looking out to sea cocktail in hand.

If different was what we wanted, we’d certainly got it. There would be nostalgia that we were missing out on that familiar, warming routine. But we were all prepared to jump into something new with both feet.

Friday, 20 December 2013

20.12.13a - a (public information) sign of the times


When you reach the point where a sign suggests that an inanimate object is about to talk down to you…and you feel that’s probably only fair…you are probably in trouble. Here is what the patronizing stamps said in my head as I queued.

“Oh, so you want to post some Christmas cards, do you? Ah, how, nice. And I suppose you want my help with that, hm? Want to just nip into the Post Office, pick a few of me up, pop me on the envelopes and away you go of a lunch time?

“Oh deary me, you do have a lot to learn don’t you! No no, that’s not the way. They way it works here, you see, is that you need to go to a completely different section of the building to buy anything you may actually need to post an item – you know, envelopes, boxes, pens and such – before even thinking about finding me. Oh, how funny you thought you could buy all those things at the same counter! Though, you are of course only a silly gweilo, and maybe you weren’t to know…

“And then of course I imagine you went to, oh, at least two windows that seemingly inexplicably didn’t sell stamps, or at least not the right ones, before getting to this queue? Sure, sure you did. Nothing to worry your silly head about, just remember to come to this magic window next time, I’m sure the logic is too much for your addled British bonce.

“But then of course, *cough*, there is the slightly embarrassing matter of how well travelled these cards are, isn’t there? Don’t tell fibs now, be honest – you’ve already ferried them all the way to the UK once, haven’t you? On your work trip home? Just forgot to post any of them when you were there didn’t you? So now, you’ve come all sweaty palmed and worried to me to try to get some last minute help from your philatelic friends and wing those cards all the way back across the world to where you meant to put them last week, yes?

“What a silly sausage you are.

Now get licking and sticking, and let’s see if we can sort all of that out for you, eh?”

20.12.13 - Cold Weather Warning


Behold the frozen wastes of Hong Kong ! The terrible barren tundra in the depths of winter!

I've told you all on here about the perils of the Black Rain warning, and the scourge of the hoisting of the Typhoon 8. But now, we are undergoing another kind of weather event, even more terrible than those unforgiving foes.

THE COLD WEATHER WARNING!

Yes, that's right. Hong Kong has another set of protocols for when it gets cold. Care to guess how cold?

15 degrees.

In the UK, at certain times of year, this would pass as balmy. You would consider getting away with donning just a t-shirt. And so, it's very odd to watch what has happened here this week since the warning has been in force. To be fair, before I gently mock, it is genuinely a bit of a shock compared to how warm it usually is. I have had to resort to jumpers for the first time. And running in it isn't hugely pleasant. Nevertheless...

The Government issues a barrage of guidance that is played over and over on TV, radio, the newspapers and in lifts. Its strictures are pretty funny as a European, where we are used to spending months without it topping 15 degrees and not turning a hair.

Wear appropriate clothing at all times!

Don't go out unless you must!

Don't expose yourself to wintry winds for too long!

Check on elderly neighbours [NB, a nice thought, but can anyone really freeze at 15 degrees?]!

Don't light fires indoors to stay warm!

If it gets very bad the Government will open temporary shelters!

Wow. And people have taken it to heart. Staff in my office have started coming in with 4 layers on (shirt, jumper, jacket, huge thick coat), gloves and hats. The most common Canto phrase I keep hearing over and over is 'Ho dong, ah!' (It's very cold!). I have heard no fewer than 3 separate people on public transport shivering

out loud. As in, audibly making 'Brrr' noises with cartoonish chattering teeth. When I waited at the bus stop this morning in just a shirt, I was asked by strangers if I was not very cold.
 
Meanwhile, any staff - like those in the hotel opposite - who work outdoors are togged up like they are about to launch a guerrilla campaign in the depths of a Russian winter - big liveried hats, thick gloves and heavy coats that reach their ankles.

Utterly bizarre to behold. But hey, I'm not complaining. For the first time since we got here, I can stride about wherever and whenever I like without immediately dissolving into a sweaty mess...